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2017年4月13日星期四

Baselworld 2016: Glashütte Original SENATOR EXCELLENCE - premiere of an innovative basic caliber


IMG_3810In the development of the new manufactory caliber 36, Glashütte's designers and designers took the time to create the most innovative and solid foundation for a new generation of timepieces. The carefully thought-out automatic movement with the classical functions of hour, minute and second offers maximum user friendliness and at the same time meets the highest watchmaking requirements. Its premiere celebrates with one of the most classic faces of the modern Glashütter Zeitrechnung: the Senator Excellence.
Calibre_36_PR1_25cm
Curtain up for caliber 36
The designers of the German watchmaker were guided by four fundamental principles in the creation of the new basic caliber: extreme stability, both in the course of the watch and in its processing, highest precision, a long running time as well as a timeless aesthetic. With these leitmotifs, a caliber emerged which represents the quintessence of the manufactory's extensive craftsmanship and predestined itself as a solid foundation for future challenges and high-altitude flights.
Caliber_36_Technical_Drawing
Stability as the top maxim
Reliability and robustness have always played an important role in the production of watches by Glashütte Original. These timepieces are made to accompany the active life of their bearers reliably and to the good reputation of their origin seal Made in Germany. When designing caliber 36, a high level of performance of the compact automatic unit was therefore given particular attention. Thanks to an optimized design, the number of components could be reduced, thus avoiding potentially wear-and-tear parts, such as the conventional ratchet in the elevator system produced by the double-sided reduction gear Is unnecessary. An innovative bayonet suspension is also provided for hand-held stability, With which the work is fixed in the housing - similar to the attachment of a camera lens. This makes the overall construction extremely shock-resistant and at the same time offers maximum service and assembly friendliness.
Silicon technology for highest precision
Caliber_36_PR2_25cmThe high-precision timepieces of the Saxon watchmaking tradition have defined the claim, which Glashütte Original measures. Today, as today, the high ideal of the inventor stoked: With the new caliber, the brand is presenting a clockwork with an innovative silicon spiral for the first time. Thanks to its high-tech material, the wafer-thin spiral is not only insensitive to temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields, but also vibrates extremely isochronously. Its advantages fit perfectly into the mechanics of the movement: a two-sided automatic elevator ensures that the watch is continuously in the optimal lift area; A guarantee for best results. By means of a returnless oscillating system, the movement of the watch can also be adjusted with weight screws directly on the unrest.
100 hours of gait
Caliber_36_PR3_25cmIn watchmaking, time plays an important role - even when it comes to ensuring the longest possible gait. The new caliber offers Glashütte Original for the first time a running time of up to 100 hours, at a frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 half vibrations per hour). A real rarity. The wearer can therefore leave his fully wounded watch resting for an unknown four days without having to reposition it. The exceptionally high autonomy is achieved with only one spring house specially developed for this purpose: with the aid of an enlarged diameter and a reduced spring core, the spring could be lengthened and its number of windings increased considerably. The result offers maximum comfort for the wearer and an authentic piece of modern watchmaking.
Decorations and finishing à la Glashütte
Caliber_36As a real child Glashütter watchmaker, the new work carries its inner beauty with pride outward. At first sight, typical glass glitter decorations and architectural features can be seen through the sapphire glass floor: the characteristic three-quarter platter and the skeletal rotor, the noble strip cut, perlations, blued screws as well as fine decorations on wheels and rotor runway. Another refined highlight is the implementation of the elegant handrail chain, which has been deliberately designed and reveals the fascinating work of the handrail.
A classic in a new face: the Senator Excellence
IMG_4670The caliber 36 celebrates its premiere in a classic of the collection. The Senator Excellence, with its reduced design, reflects the pure essence of Glashütte Original.
IMG_4656A narrow-cut bezel and the antireflex coated, curved sapphire glass on both sides offer the best views and give the timepiece its simple elegance. The fine-grained crown is decorated by the typical double G logo of the brand, which distinguishes the mechanical watches of the collection. Polished and satined surfaces on the housing reflect the light and are harmoniously coordinated with each other.
IMG_4659The hour, minute and second hands draw their orbits over a graceful dial that sharpens the eye for the essentials: the redesigned dial only shows the typical Roman hour digits at 6 and 12 o'clock, creating space for the distinctive indexes . Thus, the "face" of the new Senator Excellence is open and modern-elegant.
IMG_4662Three versions of the watch are available: two of them with a dial with light silver grainé varnish and lasered, black-galvanized indexes and matching railway minutiae. The model in stainless steel, the fine minute numbers, inspired by historical pocket watches, are lasered and black galvanized, while in the red-gold version they were printed in bright red. With both timepieces, long blued Poire pointers as well as a delicate seconds hand facilitate the reading of the time, and black Louisiana alligator leather straps with pin buckle provide for elegant wearing comfort.
IMG_4657
IMG_4665A third model is reminiscent of the famous observation clocks of the Glashütter watchmaking art. It is presented in a stainless steel case with black dial and fine curved Arabic numerals. The generous use of Super LumiNova guarantees the best visibility even in difficult light conditions: on the narrow white gold pointers, the arrowhead of the seconds hand and on the hour indexes, the luminous material ensures clarity in the dark. A white railway minuterie and 5-minute markers create additional contrasts and are complemented by a black calfskin strap with pin buckle - for pure watchmaking beauty.
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2017年4月4日星期二

Watches&Wonders 2014 in Hong Kong: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc

This Cartier timepiece is another useful small complication and it is the very first time also offered in a 42 mm steel case for an interesting price. Click on “read more” to get the story…
The Rotonde de Cartier watch launches a collection of men’s small complication models that combines a second zone-time, a day/night indication, a large date and small seconds. The new 1904-FU MC self-winding movement has been developed over a period of several years at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. A first in Cartier watchmaking, this movement groups together the setting of all its complications in one single push-piece.
To change the zone-times when traveling you simply push on the crown like on a single-pusher-chronograph.
The brain behind such clever developements is Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Head of Fine Watchmaking at Cartier. In Hong Kong it was Carole who personally showed me her latest ticking babies … 🙂
Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Head of Fine Watchmaking at Cartier
Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Head of Fine Watchmaking at Cartier

This technical achievement revitalises the world of watch complications, giving the ability to display their multiple functions within 42 mm of typical Cartier aesthetic elegance and cutting-edge technology. With its Roman numerals, its winding crown set with a cabochon, its apple-shaped hands and its “rail-track” minute circle, this watch asserts a formal classicism built around the defining signs of identity of the Cartier watch. This elegance is reinforced yet again by the contrast in its dials between pink or white gold and a silvered flinqué or blue guilloché finish. The steel version will start around 6500 CHF without taxes.
In steel…
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc
CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night equipped with in-house calibre 1904-Fu Mc

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